THE DEALIO

"... no matter what time of day... you always have to treat it like it's the best time of the day. that's the only way to keep going. if you don't think you are going to get cold or thirsty, what do you have to fear? when it gets dark everyone wants to go inside, be warm, and eat, but if you say, 'fuck that... the thing that i love to do is rock climb, and i'm here and i'm doing it,' and this is the best time of your life, then you shouldn't care if it's dark. you just keep going."

-ivo ninov

8/4/09

ascend and conquer/crank cave update part two


today was brilliant.
"wave-police" (5.13c)
second ascent

i got the second ascent of "wave-police" (5.13c) down at crank cave! i've been trying the route over the past 2 years, maybe only like 5 days total though, and spread out, to where i would forget little nuances of the route each day. today went very well. it was really hot, i was nervous, tried it once, fell at the lip of the overhang, sat and had a little heart to heart with neil (yeah it just kinda happened... i don't really know why), and after our conversation i headed down to belay her on her project, "powder finger" (5.8), then after seeing her send, i just knew i could climb the route. we headed back over to it, i tied in, and bam! send. 

very good. 

(yeah i stole the photo from last week's session, there were only two of us down there tonight.)

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