THE DEALIO

"... no matter what time of day... you always have to treat it like it's the best time of the day. that's the only way to keep going. if you don't think you are going to get cold or thirsty, what do you have to fear? when it gets dark everyone wants to go inside, be warm, and eat, but if you say, 'fuck that... the thing that i love to do is rock climb, and i'm here and i'm doing it,' and this is the best time of your life, then you shouldn't care if it's dark. you just keep going."

-ivo ninov

10/23/09

a triple threat (kinda sorta)

three fun anecdotes from the week

1. climbing gym fun

like any new member of a climbing gym must do, i had to take a belay test. I was all, "Oh, not a problem, i've been teaching people how to do that for years. I know how to work a gri gri, and i know how a gri gri works." little did i know...
a belayer can get away with a lot using a gri gri(that's why stonewalls has them!), it auto locks, nd as long as you don't interfere with the lever, you aren't gonna drop anyone. sure they arguably aren't as soft of a catch as a reverso, but on top rope, in a gym, i think a gri gri is safer.

so this lady that runs the gym up here has her own special way of doing everything, and if you dont follow her to the t, well, sucks to be you. it took her forever to finally pass me off. she kept freakin on me for not having her exact hand positions when i belay, and it's always fun explaining to someone that what you are doing works just as well if not better than what they are doing. so sorry to all you folks whom i've caught quite safely on a gri gri, apparently i'm not up to snuff, and i need to hone my technique. :D I didn't even want to bother with passing off for lead belay. which sucks, because half of the gym is lead only. wow... what a bitch she was...
the only good part of this gym is the bouldering area, which is quite large and the creepy lady doesn't watch you the whole time. it has a plethora of problems ranging from v0-v10, most between v0-v6, and a lot of strong bad ass climbers.
but it's no stonewalls.... i miss it there... teehee. actually the cave at stonewalls is far better than anything the spire has, and if you were to compare it with supy's garage, the spire sucks.
overall it's a good gym, and i'm happy that there is a nice gym so close to campus, but it definitely could be better.
(or, i'm just being a negative nancy because i'm not very good at climbing. teehee)

2. some drunken stupor

so the residence hall association, or RHA, puts on a little get together every week. usually it's a fun activity and it lets ya meet people from the rest of the building.
thursday night's was pretty ridiculous. they gave a demonstration of drunkenness. Many of the RA's (resident advisors) are over 21, and therefore it's ok for them to have alcohol in their rooms. so the RA on my floor was part of this demonstration. he's a super classy guy, always a snappy dresser, ripped as all hell, and has a bad ass back piece tattoo. but the guy can't drink very well. poor garrett... (that's his name)
so around 11pm i roll out of bed to use the facilities, and i found him passed out lying next to a toilet, clearly not feeling well. it turned out that i was one of maybe six people that stumbled across him, and we all kinda baby sat him for the rest of the night. we gave him a brownie, some crackers, and water, and checked in on him. we eventually turned on a movie for him, 300 of all things...., to get his mind off feeling like shit, and he fell asleep soon after. some things ya just gotta ride out.
gotta feel bad for the guy, he's the authority figure on our floor, and he was in no shape for that. plus, he had calculus at 8 am this morning. not gonna lie, it made me laugh. knowing the nature of this dorm, i'd assumed he could handle himself. plus, it was thursday night, and he was drinking for what was supposed to be a fun, harmless demonstration.
but, in good form, he went to class friday morning.

3. possibly the best story of the week!

so i went climbing on real rock for the first time since august! weoohoo!
i've been climbing with this kid from ketchum named andrew. he's a total bad ass. however, we are both working through recovery from substantial finger injuries, so we aren't super bad ass, but only slightly bad ass.
we did have a dog that followed us(we called him 'rover') to the crag from the parking area(located at a big game butcher shop, as in, we saw a pair of buffalo heads lying on the ground.) this dog followed us all day, and eventually some people came up to us and told us some lady was looking for it. as the rain rolled in and we had to skidaddle, the dog was reunited with it's owner(turns out his name was really 'cash'). and his owner coincidentally sits next to me in one of my classes... weird huh.
but yeah, saw lot's of cool routes, tried a few, and am psyched!

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