THE DEALIO

"... no matter what time of day... you always have to treat it like it's the best time of the day. that's the only way to keep going. if you don't think you are going to get cold or thirsty, what do you have to fear? when it gets dark everyone wants to go inside, be warm, and eat, but if you say, 'fuck that... the thing that i love to do is rock climb, and i'm here and i'm doing it,' and this is the best time of your life, then you shouldn't care if it's dark. you just keep going."

-ivo ninov

6/20/12

oh my, it's been a while. the dealio died quite a while ago, i felt it lacked anything of consequence climbing wise, and wasn't feeling it i guess.

but now, maybe i have something worthwhile to tell about. a resurrdealioection if you will.

i've been living in maple canyon, utah for about 3 weeks now. my house is a tent, my kitchen is a backpacking stove and a propane grill, and my roommates are none other than timbo and caleb, fellow dirtbags who also plan to stay around maple area all summer long.

the trip has had its fair share of ups and downs as to this point, the timing belt in my subaru broke, and until today it has been in a auto shop/gas station/diner/general store in moroni, utah. along with that, all three of us have not been climbing very much due to various ailments. timbo ruptured a tendon in a finger 6 weeks before the trip: no climbing; caleb had been finishing his first year of medical school: no climbing; and myself, i've been dealing with lingering aftereffects of whiplash and some spinal cord compression from an auto crash in early january: very little climbing.

but, the 'weak-end' as we've coined it, is almost here(*fingers crossed). after a few weeks our endurance is approaching where it needs to be for the routes here, long jug hauls on overhanging walls of cobbles, naturally cemented together to form the best chosspile i've been to. until recently, we've been flailing on the smaller crags in the canyon. strike that, the not-quite-so-pumpy-but-still-tiring-as-all-get-out crags in the canyon. one route we've been on, a .12c named '50' had 17 bolts... (oddly enough, the route next to it only had 12 bolts. needless to say it was a bit runout) anywho, we've recently begun venturing the long hike up to the pipedream cave at the top of the canyon.

it's quite appropriate that the log of our journey begins now. the pipedream brought us here. it's a massive roof, who's longest route stretches some 29 bolts long, easily 100 feet of near horizontal roof pulling. not quite that ambitious, nor able to climb 5.14, we've begun work on some shorter routes in the cave, hoping to build the endurance to try the prouder lines.

and so, it begins i guess. i hope to have photos available soon, as we now have a camera in our crew. if anything i have to say here catches your fancy, please stay tuned, as more is to come.

oh! and welcome back to the THE DEALIO!

1 comment:

  1. The Dealio lives! Keep up the blogging Thomas, you'll be happy you did.

    ReplyDelete